theManLife.com: What is men’s biggest grooming mistake when it comes to shaving?
Michael Steeles: The biggest mistake men make is shaving against the grain of hair growth. This leads to ingrown hairs and irritation. You should always follow the direction of hair. If the hair grows downward, shave downward and never upward. If you want a closer shave after shaving with the grain, try shaving across the grain to achieve a super-smooth shave.

Men should pay special attention to the area around the Adam’s apple, especially when they plan to wear a collared shirt. Most hairs below and level with this area grow sideways and sometimes upward.

TML: How do I prevent razor burn?
MS: To get a perfect, razor burn-free shave, follow these five steps:
1. Prior to shaving, gently wash your face with warm water or steam with a small towel soaked in hot water. This softens the beard and relaxes the face muscles. (Or if you prefer, shave in the shower by touch, which is also a great technique.)
2. Choose your shaving weapon to battle your stubble. I suggest doubling up by layering shaving gel over shaving oil for intense lubrication, increased skin protection, and enhanced results. I recommend King of Shaves AlphaGel and AlphaOil. (kmishop.com)
3. Using a clean razor, shave in the direction of beard growth. Start at the sideburns and work down each side of the face toward the chin, letting the razor glide over your skin without excessive pressure.
4. To shave the area under your nose, push your nose upward with one finger, shaving sideways across the top lip. Shave in the direction of the beard growth below the jaw line. When you think you’re finished, use your free hand to feel around your face for any missed hairs you need to go back and address.
5. After shaving, rinse your face with cool water and apply an alcohol-free shaving lotion. Only apply cologne to the sides of your neck and chest, because alcohol can irritate your skin.

TML: How can I achieve the 5 o’clock shadow look?
MS: Use an electric clipper or beard trimmer with a short guard on it—I’d suggest a 1.5 guard. Let your facial hair grow out, and then maintain the look by trimming it with the clipper every other day.

TML: Any tricks to keep my face stubble-free longer?
MS: Prior to shaving, gently wash your face with warm water and then steam your face with a small towel soaked in very warm water. This softens the beard, opens your pores, and relaxes the face muscles, which allows for a closer shave. The closer your shave, the longer you will be stubble-free.

TML: What do I look for in a razor?
MS: The brand of razor really does not matter as long as it is a high-quality, multiblade razor. I think a four-bladed razor is your best bet.

TML: How often do I need to throw out my razor?
MS: Once you start to feel a little drag on your razor, it’s time to replace the razor head. I suggest changing it about every six or seven times you shave. You will not get a close shave from a blunt blade: You will be shaved on some sections of your face and not on others, and you will end up with redness and blotches, which is never fun. The cure is simple: As soon as you feel a blade is not performing properly, replace it.

TML: How do I keep my razor in top condition?
MS: Always dry your razor blades after shaving. Razor blade dullness stems more from oxidation and rusting than from frequent shaving. When water sits on blades between shaves, it causes the oxidation process to begin. This leads to corrosion, which can cause metal on the blade to flake off, and the edge to become blunted and jagged. That results in blades pulling and tearing hairs instead of cleanly slicing through them.

TML: Is an electronic razor better than a regular one?
MS: No way! I recommend avoiding electric razors when possible, especially those with rotating heads. These razors can cause the hair to be cut off in all sorts of directions, and this can cause the hair to grow back into your hair follicle. When this happens, you get ingrown hairs, which are hard to treat and very uncomfortable.

 

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